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 Tips for a Great Shave! 
                                                  By Buck Williams – Master 
                                                  Barber  
                                                  http://www.men-uusa.com  
                                                 
                                                Proper 
                                                  shaving techniques, quality 
                                                  products and post-shaving skin 
                                                  care can help you look and feel 
                                                  your best. A good, close shave 
                                                  followed by the right facial 
                                                  wash and after shave moisturizer 
                                                  products go hand in hand to 
                                                  achieve optimum skin health. 
                                                  And, it can turn a chore into 
                                                  a pleasant morning ritual. 
                                                   
                                                  Top 
                                                  10 Shaving Tips: 
                                                  
                                                Warning 
                                                  - this is the long answer - 
                                                  but isn't a couple of minutes 
                                                  of reading worth it? After all, 
                                                  your face is the first thing 
                                                  they notice...... 
                                                1. 
                                                  Make Sure Your Beard is Thoroughly 
                                                  Wet  
                                                  One of the keys to a great close 
                                                  shave without irritation or 
                                                  skin rash is to make sure your 
                                                  beard is thoroughly wet. Facial 
                                                  hair will absorb moisture up 
                                                  to 30% of its volume. Hair swollen 
                                                  with water becomes quite weak 
                                                  and therefore easier to cut. 
                                                  Showering before shaving is 
                                                  the ideal way to ensure you 
                                                  beard is properly moistened. 
                                                  If a shower is not possible, 
                                                  rinse your face and then apply 
                                                  a warm moistened towel to your 
                                                  face for at least a couple of 
                                                  minutes. This is the technique 
                                                  that barbers use. Never shave 
                                                  cold or apply shaving products 
                                                  to a dry face.  
                                                2. 
                                                  Use a Quality Shaving Cream 
                                                   
                                                  Use a shaving cream that has 
                                                  a high concentration of lubricants 
                                                  (e.g. silicones) and moisturizers. 
                                                  The best shaving creams create 
                                                  a rich creamy lather and do 
                                                  not foam up like the cheaper 
                                                  drug store brands. The less 
                                                  "foaming" in the shave 
                                                  cream the better, as it is what 
                                                  is in contact with the skin 
                                                  and beard that matters - all 
                                                  else is wasted. Less resistance, 
                                                  less irritation and less nicks 
                                                  also mean a longer lasting blade! 
                                                  While the primary function of 
                                                  the shaving cream is to lubricate 
                                                  your face so that the razor 
                                                  will glide smoothly and effortlessly 
                                                  across the surface, it also 
                                                  serves to lock the moisture 
                                                  into the whiskers, keeping them 
                                                  soft and upright, primed for 
                                                  the cut. The ideal scenario 
                                                  is to leave the shaving cream 
                                                  on your face for at least a 
                                                  minute before you begin cutting, 
                                                  so that the beard is as soft 
                                                  and wet as possible.  
                                                3. 
                                                  A Shaving Brush is One of the 
                                                  Best Tools  
                                                  One of the best tools you can 
                                                  use to achieve the optimum shave 
                                                  is a shaving brush (as top barbers 
                                                  do). A shaving brush does a 
                                                  couple of things. First, it 
                                                  helps raise the hair so that 
                                                  a closer cut is possible. Second, 
                                                  it helps create a rich creamy 
                                                  lather with the shaving cream 
                                                  that stays close to the skin. 
                                                  And, finally, it helps remove 
                                                  dead skin cells (exfoliation) 
                                                  which reduces the chance of 
                                                  blemishes, razor bumps and also 
                                                  helps the skin look and feel 
                                                  smooth and healthy. Always look 
                                                  for a shaving brush with bristles 
                                                  that have the right balance 
                                                  between softness (to create 
                                                  a rich creamy that stays close 
                                                  to the skin) and resistance 
                                                  to raise the beard (making a 
                                                  closer cut easier!)  
                                                4. 
                                                  Apply the shaving cream using 
                                                  the brush in a circular motion 
                                                  ending in an upward stroke to 
                                                  help lift the beard up and away 
                                                  from the face.  
                                                5. 
                                                  Use a Quality Razor and Change 
                                                  the Blades  
                                                  Always use a good quality sharp 
                                                  razor blade. Be sure the blade 
                                                  is sharp. You're not just cutting 
                                                  off hair, you're also scraping 
                                                  off up to two layers of surface 
                                                  skin when you shave. A dull 
                                                  blade is more traumatic to the 
                                                  skin, making your face feel 
                                                  scratchy and look blotchy. Depending 
                                                  on the toughness of your beard, 
                                                  change the blade somewhere between 
                                                  every three and every ten shaves, 
                                                  if you shave every day. Two 
                                                  weeks is too long to go without 
                                                  changing blades. Regardless 
                                                  of the number of shaves, if 
                                                  the blade is dulled, ditch it. 
                                                 
                                                As 
                                                  to which brand of razor to use 
                                                  - we think you can't go wrong 
                                                  with any of the Gillette Mach 
                                                  series. Of course there are 
                                                  very high quality and expensive 
                                                  razors available at specialty 
                                                  retailers that you may want 
                                                  to try.  
                                                Rinse 
                                                  your blade under hot water before 
                                                  you begin to shave and after 
                                                  every few swipes. This removes 
                                                  the accumulated shaving cream, 
                                                  whiskers, and skin goop. For 
                                                  a really close shave, remoisten 
                                                  the section you just shaved, 
                                                  by spreading a thin layer of 
                                                  lather from another area of 
                                                  your face, and then swiping 
                                                  that area again. Keep everything 
                                                  moist. (Note: The use of hot 
                                                  water here is to help lubricate, 
                                                  has nothing to do with "killing 
                                                  bacteria.") 
                                                   
                                                  6. Use the Razor Properly 
                                                   
                                                  Ideally shave in the direction 
                                                  of the beard growth. Start with 
                                                  the sides, then the moustache 
                                                  area and last the chin. The 
                                                  chin hairs are the toughest, 
                                                  so this allows them the most 
                                                  time to soften under the shave 
                                                  cream. 
                                                Shaving 
                                                  against the direction of hair 
                                                  growth gives a closer shave, 
                                                  but has two drawbacks: 
                                                
                                                  -  
                                                    
A. 
                                                      It's a good way to donate 
                                                      blood, and  
                                                   
                                                  -  
                                                    
B. 
                                                      You run a high risk of cutting 
                                                      off a hair below skin level, 
                                                      causing an ingrown hair 
                                                      (razor bumps) - the whisker 
                                                      grows into the surrounding 
                                                      tissue instead of out of 
                                                      the pore, resulting in inflammation 
                                                      and possible infection. 
                                                   
                                                 
                                                To 
                                                  avoid these shaving problems, 
                                                  again, shave "with the 
                                                  grain" (that is, in the 
                                                  direction your hair grows.) 
                                                  Each person's facial hair has 
                                                  its own growth pattern. If you 
                                                  are unsure of the direction 
                                                  of your beard, let it grow for 
                                                  a day or two and you'll see 
                                                  it.  
                                                7. 
                                                  If you want an even Closer Shave 
                                                   
                                                  If you wish to achieve an even 
                                                  closer shave (as many barbers 
                                                  do) apply some more lather from 
                                                  your brush (add more cream if 
                                                  necessary) to the areas you 
                                                  wish to shave again. This is 
                                                  one of the extra advantages 
                                                  of using a brush. For most guys, 
                                                  re-shaving certain areas with 
                                                  the grain should do the job. 
                                                  Professional barbers, by the 
                                                  way, usually first shave with 
                                                  the grain, and then re-shave 
                                                  going sideways - but they're 
                                                  trained professionals!  
                                                But, 
                                                  don't over shave. Too much shaving 
                                                  will cause skin irritation and 
                                                  rashes.  
                                                Rinse 
                                                  the blade thoroughly before 
                                                  you put it away. (The water 
                                                  temperature isn't going to have 
                                                  any impact on bacteria; you're 
                                                  rinsing the blade to get rid 
                                                  of hairs, shaving cream, oils, 
                                                  and gunk, not to kill bacteria. 
                                                  You'd need to boil the razor 
                                                  for that, which is not necessary.) 
                                                  Do NOT wipe the blade with a 
                                                  tissue or towel--that will just 
                                                  dull it faster.  
                                                8. 
                                                  Cleanse and Soothe After Shaving 
                                                  After shaving, when the skin 
                                                  is most vulnerable (remember, 
                                                  you've just scraped off up to 
                                                  2 layers of surface skin!), 
                                                  rinse the face with warm water 
                                                  and use a facial wash that has 
                                                  a high concentration of tea 
                                                  tree oil (a natural antiseptic 
                                                  that is ideal to help cleanse 
                                                  and protect from spots and shaving 
                                                  rash) and witch hazel (for its 
                                                  soothing, healing and astringent 
                                                  properties).  
                                                9. 
                                                  Rinse with the coolest water 
                                                  that is comfortable and pat 
                                                  dry with a clean towel. (Don't 
                                                  rub! Just pat) 
                                                10. 
                                                  Finish off with an Aftershave 
                                                  Moisturizer.  
                                                  Shaving can remove up to two 
                                                  layers of skin. There is no 
                                                  other regular activity that 
                                                  does this, which is why it is 
                                                  so important to use a good quality 
                                                  moisturizer after shaving. An 
                                                  after shave moisturizer designed 
                                                  as an after shave balm and moisturizer 
                                                  in one, is the ideal way to 
                                                  replace lost moisture and soothe 
                                                  the skin. And, be sure to use 
                                                  one made just for guys - these 
                                                  formulas are designed so that 
                                                  they are not greasy, absorb 
                                                  quickly and dry with a matte 
                                                  finish so that your face doesn't 
                                                  look shiny. Typically moisturizers 
                                                  made for women are too greasy 
                                                  as men tend to have not only 
                                                  thicker skin but also oiler 
                                                  skin than women due to men's 
                                                  larger sebaceous glands. The 
                                                  best aftershave moisturizers 
                                                  not only replace lost moisture 
                                                  and soothe, but also have ingredients 
                                                  that will cool and refresh the 
                                                  skin. 
                                                Following 
                                                  these 10 shaving tips should 
                                                  help you achieve optimum skin 
                                                  health, avoid shaving problems 
                                                  and help you look and feel your 
                                                  best. 
                                                About 
                                                  The Author 
                                                Buck 
                                                  Williams is a master barber 
                                                  with over 15 years of barbering 
                                                  and product development experience 
                                                  for premier barbershops, salons 
                                                  and manufacturers. Most recently, 
                                                  Buck has appeared on TV as a 
                                                  makeover guru, and behind the 
                                                  scenes on TV and film production 
                                                  sets and magazine features helping 
                                                  actors and sports celebrities 
                                                  look their best. Buck’s 
                                                  passion is helping men look 
                                                  and feel their best and believes 
                                                  that a smooth close shave and 
                                                  after shave skin care is so 
                                                  important to the health of your 
                                                  skin and the impression you 
                                                  make.  
                                                   
                                                   
                                                This 
                                                  article on Shaving Tips and 
                                                  Techniques is reprinted with 
                                                  permission. 
                                                © 
                                                  2004 – Avatar International 
                                                  LLC.  
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